Wines of Italy in Russia

Tatiana Zhemaytis is a Russian marketing expert who, in 2020, decided to merge her passion for wine with her professional experience to create YOURWINEHUNTER—a project that promotes the world of wine through tours, events, and classes.

Tatiana showed us Italian wine through the eyes of the Russian market and shared her view on where Italian wineries should focus to build stronger relationships with a country that loves white wine, but that—according to Tatiana—is not yet ready for high price points, especially after the recent devaluation of the ruble.

Tatiana, we’ve noticed that you’ve worked on various projects in the wine sector. Would you like to tell us something about your passion and your experience?

My relationship with the world of wine began spontaneously several years ago during a trip to Paris. At dinner, a friend of mine ordered a bottle of white wine—he expected I would like it, but to me it smelled awful, so I refused the glass and ordered a Champagne instead. The party continued, and after a couple of hours I decided to give it a second chance. I was fascinated by how the wine had transformed: the aromas were so different and complex. It was a Chablis Grand Cru.

When I returned to Moscow, I started exploring wine culture, putting all the resources I had into it, and I took a professional course. Day by day I understood more and more that I had found my calling. So I decided to leave my job—for many years I was a marketing and communications specialist—and I successfully passed the WSET Level 3 exam, finally launching the YOURWINEHUNTER project, which combines wine classes, tastings, private events, and winery tours around the world. I do what I love and what gives me energy, I meet amazing people, and I feel that my vocation is to guide the people who follow me into the magical world of wine.

Based on your experience, are there differences between wine consumption in Russia and in Italy? So far, who are the target customers for Italian wines in the Russian market, and which denominations manage to penetrate the market best?

The average wine consumer in Russia is between 25 and 45 years old, highly educated, travels a lot, and has a middle or upper-middle income. Italy is Russia’s leading wine supplier. So far, its market share accounts for about 30% of the total Russian market, and the percentage of sparkling wines rises to as much as 60% (generally speaking, Prosecco). Russians love Prosecco especially for its fresh taste, the lively sparkle of its bubbles, and because it’s ideal for aperitivo at a moderate price compared to other sparkling wines.

However, in my view, people in Russia should get to know other Italian sparkling wines better, especially traditional-method wines. There could be an initial barrier due to the higher price, but during my last holiday in Northern Italy I tried fantastic wines at moderate prices that could enter the Russian market and compete with Champagne.

For now, red wine is only second on the scale of Russian preferences, but there is significant potential for Italian red wines to broaden the offering.

Up to now, how has food & beverage made in Italy been perceived in Russia, and how was Italian wine positioned in the Russian market? In terms of sales, is there a preference for bulk, private label, bottled entry-level, bottled premium, etc.?

I love Italy! I’ve been to Italy so many times that I lost count a long time ago.

Traditionally, vodka is the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia, but in recent decades wine has been gaining more and more ground. One of the reasons, in my opinion, is the global trend toward more mindful consumption, and wine meets this need, having always been considered a drink associated with good company, good food, and elegance.

Because of the economic situation in Russia and the depreciation of the ruble, I believe the share of premium bottles will decrease. Italy could—and perhaps should—begin supplying a wider range of more affordable entry-level bottles for Russians.

Following the latest events involving Eastern Europe, is it still possible for Italian wineries to export to Russia? What changes and difficulties are seen in the market today?

When the sad news about the conflict in Eastern Europe arrived, the major wine importers immediately halted all shipments of foreign alcohol.

From March 1, wine supplies resumed, but with a significant price increase: a bottle of wine today costs 30–40% more than in the pre-crisis period. The Luding group, one of the major wine importers, officially stated that it would cooperate with foreign suppliers in order to strengthen business ties and, together, find a solution to ensure Russian wine lovers can still access wine.

In my opinion, exports from Italy to Russia are not at risk: it’s a very large business involving restaurants, major supermarket chains, and millions of people who buy wine for personal consumption. Italy has penetrated Russian food-and-wine culture too deeply to cut bridges.

Do you have any advice to share with Italian wineries on how to face the situation? What contribution can you make thanks to your experience?

In my view, behind every crisis there is an opportunity. If the pandemic hadn’t happened, I don’t know whether I would have made the same successful choices, some of which were very bold. And even now, with a more complicated and unstable situation, I still see many opportunities for Italian wineries to build business relationships with Russia. In my opinion, they should review the range of appellations and add quality labels at accessible prices.

Moreover, I believe the current political situation should not influence the lives of Russian citizens who want to enjoy life and drink a good Italian wine. Wine culture should go beyond political issues.

As a wine lover—completely in love with Italy and with Italian wine—I would like to use all my experience in marketing and in the wine world to help wineries that today have the desire and ambition to enter the Russian market. I’m ready to help them build and strengthen our business relationships, leveraging all the contacts I have in Russia.